MB: "I'm intrigued to know how Mika Salo made it to that particular piece of race-track."
Designing an F1 circuit is not a particular easy thing to do, and I can't really give you too many pointers other than to use road sections (they seem more versatile than drawing on a map, besides, you would need a lot of maps) and consult modern F1 tracks for some ideas.
As a lot of the 2049 tracks share the same circuits as their 1999 versions, copying these tracks is also a very good possibility. Be warned though that speaking from experience, this is not an easy thing to do. But don't worry if you can't get the track exactly right (I would be surprised if you could). As long as the basic outline is there, corners aren't a push over, and there are still some straights, it should be okay. Besides, the FIA will have brought in new regulations which probably would have caused some changes anyhow.
Regardless of which method you choose, there are some things to remember. All tracks should have at least one straight where almost full speed is possible. There should some tight corners (for controlling the speed of the track and slowing things down), and maybe long fast corners. Chicanes were very common for slowing things down. And don't make the track into an oval shape! There isn't a single F1 track that is boring in that respect.
With a race length of some 190 miles, a single circuit should be within 2.5 - 4.5 miles in length. Yes, this is long.
Some components that all circuits need:
Obviously a prime requirement for a racing circuit. All tracks are level with no sloping around the corners, although some do indeed have some hills and bumps in them. At no point in the circuit will the track cross itself, unless the crossing track is above or below the section being crossed. No potential for crossing collisions I'm afraid.
When using road sections, completely ignore the white pavement around straight edges. This is considered grass and will act like normal grass (not off-road terrain) for F1 cars. Drivers tend to avoid this.
At some point in the track, there has to be a start/finish line. Where this is, is left up to the players, but it should be located on a straight. cars are lined up behind this, but they are allowed to be located around a corner (a classic example is the Silverstone circuit where this happens).
Starting driver positions:
In F1, all cars start the race from a stationary position. They should be positioned 1/2" from the outer edge, in two lines, so that 1" will separate the two lines of cars.
The car in pole position will be touching the start/finish line and will be in the outer lane. Second position will be one inch behind the first car, but in the inner lane. Third place will be one inch behind the second car, but in the outer lane, and so on. So at the end of the day, all cars will be one inch behind the car in front, and positions will alternate between the outer and inner lanes.
Every circuit has a pit lane where a car can pull in for repairs, fuel and change of tyres. This pit lane is situated on the inside of the race track, and is always located behind the start/finish line. The entrance to the pit lane comes from the last corner to the start/finish line, and the exit goes to the first corner after the start/finish line.
The pit lane itself is 1 and a half inches wide, and 2 inches before the pit garages are available, the pit line is situated. Cars MUST have slowed to 60 mph before they hit this line. 2 inches after the pit garages is the second pit line, where cars can accelerate to over 60 mph once this line is crossed.
The pit garages are situated in a line, there being 1 pit garage per team, with a minimum of 12 garages. Each garage is an inch and a half wide, so the minimum width of the garages is 18 inches.
In the pit garage straight (yes, it must be straight), the inch and a half wide traffic lane is split into two. The outermost half is considered the fast lane where all traffic moves. No overtaking is allowed here. The innermost half is where the cars must stop to get serviced. The stopping point for cars is the centre most inch of the pit garage, and if a car stops before or after that inch, the mechanics must move to get to the car which will slow down a pit stop.
The outermost pit lane is a full inch away from the race track, and once into the pit garage straight, there is no way a car can get back to the race track as there is a wall blocking where race officials and team crew sit to study the race.
Around the corners (and the corners only, no straight sections), the edge of the track is grooved and raised slightly with 'Saw teeth' edges to assist in getting an F1 car back on the road. Hitting this is a D1 hazard, and is a +1D for all manoeuvres. However, every time that a car gets more than 2 wheels onto the saw teeth, roll 1D6-3 for the amount of underbody damage that the car will sustain. This type of damage can inflict suspension damage as well, so that the optional suspension damage rules can be used in conjunction with this underbody damage.
In the rain, the saw-teeth are very slippery, and thus all manoeuvres making a car use them is at +3D, not the +1D as above. In the wet, you'd be surprised at how many drivers avoid these!
Also around all corners, extending from the entrance to the corner to about 5 to 20 inches out off the track, to about 3 inches after the corner, is the gravel trap. The object of this is to seriously reduce a speeding cars speed when it hits the trap. As a result, hitting the trap is an immediate D1 hazard, and it slows a car down by 10 mph per turn. Whilst in the trap, a driver has little control over the vehicle, and all normal acceleration and deceleration limits are halved (rounding to the nearest 2.5 mph) until the vehicle is off the trap. Provided a car doesn't hit something, it may accelerate out of the gravel trap and back into the race if it can. The gravel trap also acts like normal grass for manoeuvring, but it doesn't count as off-road terrain.
If a car stops in a gravel trap (goes to zero speed), there is the chance that the car will stall. Roll 2d6, and on a 10+, the car stalls. It will not start again in a gravel trap, and thus the car will be out of the race.
Surrounding the gravel traps is the tyre walls, the last thing that a speeding F1 car will come across. This is designed to cushion and soften an impact. In game terms, this means that a car hitting the wall will suffer normal collision damage, but after the DM has been applied, only two thirds of this damage will actually be applied to the car, the rest having been absorbed by the wall. Hitting the wall head on will cause the car to stop completely, and it will be out of the race. Sideswiping the wall will automatically cause a sideswipe ram, but the car may still be driveable. The wall itself can taken unlimited DP and will not breach.
Tyre walls are also situated about 4 inches off to the sides of every part of a track.
While most of an F1 track is open, with the notable exception of corners, some tracks are very tight and are actually cities, such as the Monaco track. With these tracks, there isn't space to install gravel traps and tyre walls, and so standard metal impact barriers are placed around the walls instead. These are bad for cars. What they do is they completely stop a car that impacts it head on, are solid, immobile and invulnerable to damage themselves, and thus can't be breached. They also provide no cushioning protection to cars hitting, and they will take full collision damage.
As well as tight circuits, they are also placed on the sides of the start/finish straight and protect the pit lane.
There are always exceptions to everything, and the above notes should be taken as a guideline only. Some circuits (notably the Monaco one) are very demanding and unforgiving. Monaco, being a street circuit, has no gravel traps, no grass at the side of the track, and indeed, no additional cornering space. Instead all it has is the road tarmac and great big metal crash barriers at the side where you would normally come off.
And some circuits are very forgiving, such as Malaysia, which has great big gravel traps, wide track, and lots of grass.
The track itself can play a big part in any race. While tracks are generally cleaned and made clear of all extraneous debris, some are slap bang in the middle of a dust bowl, or other external influences come into play to blow all this back. A good example is the Hungarian Grand Prix, where the track is very dusty because of it's geological location.
This can be simulated by imposing an additional D hazard to all manoeuvres either on all or part of the track. The Hungarian Grand Prix would merit a +1D to all manoeuvres around all corners for instance.
For every race, a team must select up to three cars (2 racing cars, and a spare in the case of collisions). These cars must have at least a driver. Once these cars are selected they are the only cars available for the qualifying and the race, and the decision, once made, is not allowed to be changed. If a team crashes all three cars during qualifying, they are not allowed to use any other cars that the team may own.
A Lap is termed from the start/finish line, around to the circuit to the star/finish line again.
An out lap is termed from leaving the pits to getting to the start/finish line, and an in-lap is the one in which a driver decides to come back in. As the movement around a track is one way, once you've completed a fast lap, you have to effectively do another lap to come back in.
If a driver crashes a car, then they may use the spare car. If they crash that, then they may not use any other cars - they are not allowed to take the car away from their team mates.
Gunners are not required to be in the car for qualifying, which may effect a cars performance, and neither is a full tank of fuel - only the amount needed to get a car around the track, do one or two (or more) fast laps, and then come back in is actually needed. Ammunition is also not needed. Provided the car weighs the minumum 1,500 lbs., it is allowed to qualify. As a result, qualifying times are usually much quicker than race times.
With regards to tyres, unless it rains, the tyre choice for a qualifying lap counts as the tyre choice for the race. Thus if you decide to go out in soft slicks, you must start the race in soft slicks. The only exception is if it rains, in which case you are allowed to switch to rain tyres and keep them for the race.
Remember, no combat is allowed in qualifying.
- All drivers get 12 laps with which to qualify.
- The out and in laps don't count towards the time but do towards the laps taken.
- Fastest time by a driver gets pole position.
- Pit stops may be taken to change tyres if desired, and there is no limit to the amount of time that a driver may wait within their garage.
- Drivers outside the 107% time don't get in the race, unless special compensation is granted by all players.
- If a driver crashes, then they are allowed to use the spare car, but it will take them 2d6 + 10 minutes to get back to it and be in a position to drive it.
The waiting game:
If you're using this method, then remember that you have an hour to complete your laps. Provided you started your last lap before the final flag is waved to display the fact that the hour is over, you are allowed to complete it. However this hour is also important for another reason. What cars are used here are used in the race proper, and as a result this is usually the first time that teams get to see their opponents cars. Thus being the first out means that everyone sees your car. It also means that you go round the track and everyone else studies what you do and sees if they can learn by it. So there is the advantage in going out later rather than sooner. Also, once you go out, your tyre choice is made, but not before, so if you see other cars and decide that you need hard slicks, watch the others. But if the weather is variable, then you might want to go out sooner rather than later in case the heavons open and you suddenly find yourself going slower because of the rain. It's the fastest time that gets pole, not how many laps you do or how many times you come off.
- All drivers do one lap around the track.
- Start from whatever speed they wish.
- Highest time gets pole.
- Drivers outside the 107% time don't get in the race, unless special compensation is granted by all players.
- If a driver crashes, then they will be allowed in the race at the back of the grid if special compensation is granted by all players.
This method is simply based on a 2d6 dice roll with certain modifiers for the speed and handling of the car. The highest modified total gets pole position. Re-roll any ties.
| Aceleration: |
5 mph | -4 |
| 10 mph | -2 |
| 15 mph | +0 |
| 20 mph | +0 |
| 25 mph | +1 |
| 30 mph | +4 |
| 35 mph | +6 |
| HC: |
+2 per point above 6, including any reflex bonus |
| Driver skill: |
+2 per level |
| Speed: |
Below 160 mph | -1 per 5 mph (or fraction) |
| Above 180 mph | +0.5 per 2.5 mph |
| Safe braking: |
10 mph | +0 |
| 15 mph | +1 |
| 20 mph | +2 |
| 25 mph | +4 |
It is not necessary to game the initial parade lap, unless you really want to that is. If you do, make a normal start roll (see below) and take it from there, remembering that cars are not allowed to overtake in this lap, but it does count towards fuel consumption.
The main thing about F1 is that the laps are long, and there are many of them. In Car Wars, this can be a bit of a problem as it means that races can take a very long time to do. I haven't figured out a way of getting round this, but there are some suggestions in Dueltrack. These consist of doing each turn second by second, instead of phase by phase, or even in ten second turns, stopping when someone wants to combat or where manoeuvring gets critical.
Whatever you do, the first lap should be played out properly. It's the one that separates the boys from the men and seperates out the field.
The tyre choice of a car in qualifying is the tyre choice of the car in the race, thus it is important to attempt to get it right in qualifying. But then depending on when you go out in qualifying depends on when you get to decide. The only exception to this is in the case of rain. If it does rain before the race proper, you are then allowed to change your choice to a rain tyre. Once the race starts though, you are allowed to make whatever tyre decision you like, but obviously a car has to enter the pits to get those tyres changed.
What tyres one car in a team uses doesn't effect the tyres of the other car.
If you use any method of qualifying other than gaming the whole thing, then you probably won't have made a tyre choice, so do it now.
Before the race begins, the cars must be fuelled up, and a decision has to be made as to the strategy of the pit stops. A player must determine how many stops they wish to make with their car, and the plot a window for the pit stop - the window is usually about five laps either side of the stop. This is their scheduled pit stops. All other stops that a car makes become non-scheduled pit stops and thus have an extra time factor to figure in.
For example, racing in the Sepang circuit (56 laps at 3.438 miles each), a player wants his car to have a two stop strategy. His car has a 25 gallon tank, and the engine does 3 mpg. Two stops at Sepang is usually done at laps 18 and 36, so plotting those as the scheduled pit stops gives the window of operations.
Obviously this can be as complicated or easy as the players desire - some teams have long first stints, and short second ones, or vice versa. Over all, the thing shouldn't take too long to decide as a non scheduled pit stop with over a laps notice becomes the equivilant of a regular pit stop with no extra time anyway.
MB: "These things take off like a scalded cat."
The race is started from standstill. To simulate the variable time taken for the lights to go off to starting the race, the following method is used.
Every driver rolls 2d6 and compares this with their reflex rating:
- Natural 2 dice roll - Exceptional start!
+2 to the reflex stat for the first turn only
- Roll is less than or equal to half the drivers reflex stat - Good start!
+1 to the reflex stat for the first turn only
- Greater than half but less than the reflex stat - Average start.
No bonuses or modifiers to the reflex stat
- Greater than the reflex stat - Slow start!
For each point over the reflex stat rolled, the driver must wait one phase before being allowed to move off the start line
- Natural 12 dice roll - Stall!
This is not good... roll 2d6+5 to see when the engine is restarted, in phases. If another natural 12 is rolled, the car must be pushed to the pits and can be restarted from the pit lane (taking about 1 minute). If yet another natural 12 is rolled, the engine will not restart, and the car is out of the race.
MW: "Schumacher wouldn't have let him past voluntarily. Of course he did it voluntarily, but he had to do it."
A driver (the yielder) may yield to an attacker who is behind or beside him. The yielder must declare their intent to yield and immediately start to decelerate by 20 mph per turn until the attacker has passed, and must not perform any threatening actions at all.
A driver may yield as many times as they want, but other drivers do not have to accept it, although it is common practise to. Two cars that have yielded and been yielded to, may not engage each other again unless the two cars come into a situation where the yeilder is now attempting to over take the yeildee.
Lapped drivers Must yield to their lappers, if the lapper is faster than the lappee, then they do not have to decelerate at all. Remember that combat may not occur between lapper and lappee anyway. This rule effectively means that a lapped car may not attack his lapper at all, which means that the slower driver do not interfere with the faster drivers and win by simply attacking. F1 is not about winning by being the only car left.
For ease, each lap that a car achieves uses an amount of fuel equalling the distance of the lap at cruising speed. This is used and computed when the car crosses the start/finish line. Fuel is very important in this sort of racing game, and thus should be used - running out of fuel means that a car can't finish the race.
Each tyre has a certain amount of tyre points. Each hazard the car takes due to a manoeuvre, braking, hitting debris or tyre damage is subtracted from the tyre point. Thus a D1 manoeuvre is a -1 to the tyre points. When an amount of points are taken away from the tyre points to get the value to zero, the vehicles HC is reduced by 1 from the tyre bonus. This then starts again from the full tyre points. If the tyre loses its HC bonus due to tyre wear, then each additional time that the tyre would lose 1 HC, it loses 1 DP instead.
Each DP of damage gives an additional subtraction, as does each lap traversed.
- DP damage: -10% of the original tyre wear value per point of damage
- lap wear: -1 per mile (or fraction) of circuit, taken when the vehicle crosses the start/finish line.
- Wear due to hitting the saw teeth around a corner counts as double.
| Tyre type | Tyre points |
|---|
| Soft racing slick | 350 |
| Softer racing slick | 300 |
| Hard racing slick | 500 |
| Rain racing slick | 350 |
| Compact racing slick | 275 |
Obviously, when a tyre is replaced in the pits, all bonuses for the new tyres return, and all tyre point values are reset.
This is very similar to tyre wear, although only hazards due to braking are applied to wear totals. Braking is reduced by 5 mph per total increment (with a minimum braking of 5 mph), with no chance of replenishing during a game as brakes cannot be replaced during a pit stop.
With a car that has different brakes on the front and back of the vehicle, the penalties take hold as soon as the lowest wear brakes take a penalty. This penalty does effect the whole vehicle.
| Brake type | Brake points |
|---|
| HD brakes | 100 |
| Hard HD brakes | 150 |
| Racing brakes | 170 |
| Hard racing brakes | 300 |
| Compact racing brakes | 125 |
* These values, while looking reasonable, are still experimental and may need slight adjusting at some future point.
MB: "I assure you Murray, as we enter the pit-lane we think 'I hope Murray isn't talking about me now."
A pit stop is vital to the well being of a car. It can be used to replace tyres, armour, spoilers/airdams, ammunition, and be used to replace fuel. No actual damaged components within a car can be repaired or replaced, nor can be body armour be replaced on a driver or gunner.
For a pit stop to happen, the car must stop in its own garage (at any point provided the whole car is somewhere within the garage), not others, and you cannot drive through other garages to get to your own (there are mechanics and other crew there).
To work out the time for a pit stop, calculate the time taken for the longest timed item, as detailed below, then calculate in the random element, pit crew skill, and whether the pit crew have to move due to a bad stop by the driver (if a car doesn't stop precisely in the centre inch of the garage, then the pit stop crew will have to move). This will result in the time for the pit stop.
| Item replaced | Time taken |
|---|
| Tyres (all) | 5 seconds |
| Fuel | 0.2 seconds per gallon
minimum of 4 seconds |
| Ammo | 10 seconds per weapon |
| Replacing laser battery | 20 seconds per battery |
| Armour - 25% | 15 seconds |
| Armour - 50% | 24 seconds |
| Armour - 75% | 30 seconds |
| Armour - 100% | 35 seconds |
| Spoiler/Airdam | 20 seconds |
| Pit crew skill: | -0.6 seconds per skill level |
| Random element: | + 2d6 * 0.2 seconds
- 2d6 * 0.2 seconds |
+ 2 seconds per square that the pit crew have to move to get to the car.
After all calculations are done, the minimum time needed for a pit stop is the amount of time taken for the fuel to be pumped into the car. This is because all the teams use the same type of fuel pump, and it all pumps the fuel into the car at the same rate which, alas, is not something that can be effected by a pitsman.
For example, a McLaren car is coming into the pits to change 3 tyres, 50% of the right armour, and 25% of the left. Also to refuel 10 gallons of fuel and replace the ammunition in the HMG. The pit crew have a skill of +2, and the car stops beautifully in the lane.
The time taken for the longest item (which in this case would be the 50% armour on the right side) is 24 seconds. This is cut to 22.8 seconds with the pit crew skill. The random element is (rolls 2d6 for a total of 3) +0.6 seconds - (rolls 2d6 for a total of 8) 1.6 seconds for a grand total of 21.2 seconds in the pits, which is very respectable.
When it comes to replacing armour, it must be replaced in 25% sections. This is based on the original armour in the location, not the damage sustained. So a car that has an armour of 20 originally and then takes 7 points of damage could either get 25% repaired (5 points) which would take 12 seconds, or replaced 50% of the armour (10 points) which would take 16 seconds but replace all damage. At no time may the armour replaced exceed the original amount of armour on the car.
All tyres will be replaced by a pit crew automatically. Never will they just replace the odd tyre, always a full set. If they have the spare tyres that is. Remember that each car is allowed a total of 32 tyres, and if one car has a six wheeled chassis and the other doesn't, spares are not allowed to be transfered from one to another.
Unscheduled Pit Stops:
An unscheduled pit stop is one that hasn't been planned before the race for fuel (although every thing that can be replaced usually is on a normal pit stop). Usually it's because of excessive combat damage and thus a decision that a driver makes on the spur of the moment. When this happens, the pit crew have to scramble to get ready, and the mechanics have to study the telemetry from the car to determine exactly what is needed.
To determine the time for an unscheduled pit stop, make a normal pit stop time as above, but then add in the following time depending on where the car is around the track before the pit stop was taken.
| Amount of notice for pit stop | Extra time for pit stop |
|---|
| Over 1 lap | None |
| Three quarters of a lap | +1d6 seconds |
| Half a lap | +1d6+2 seconds |
| A quarter of a lap | +2d6 seconds |
| None - deciding as driving into the pit lane | +3d6 seconds |
MW: "It's raining, and the track is wet."
Weather can play a big role in racing, and this will determine the tyres that the team will use, and how quickly the cars will go.
Before the race (and qualifying if gaming that), roll 2d6 and consult the following table. Referees and players may add modifiers as they see fit depending on the geographical location of the race, and whilst this system doesn't allow for weather changes during a race, players may devise their own rules for that.
| Die roll | Weather |
|---|
| 2 | Storm!
Adds D3 to any hazard or manoeuvre. -4 to hit with weapons fire.
If more than half the drivers leave the circuit due to weather hazard modifiers, the safety car will come out until the storm subsides to mere heavy rain, or else the race will be stopped with the cars in their current positions. If the race hadn't gone half distance, then only half points will be awarded. |
| 3 | Heavy rain:
Adds D2 to any hazard or manoeuvre. -3 to hit with weapons fire. |
| 4-6 | Light rain:
Adds D1 to any hazard or manoeuvre. -2 to hit with weapons fire. |
| 7-10 | Fair:
No additional rules, treat as a nice clear day. |
| 11 | Hot:
With the temperature as hot as it is, the track gets hot and this slows the cars down as the grip increases. All top speeds are reduced by 5%. Engines also wear out and break down in this heat, and so every time the car is travelling at full speed, roll 2d6, and on an 9+, roll on the engine critical table. |
| 12 | Very hot:
The heat is really effecting the car now, and top speeds will drop by 10%. Every time a vehicle accelerates by it's maximum, or travels at 90+% of its maximum speed, roll 2d6. On an 8+, roll on the engine critical table. |
Some sample modifiers:
| Location | Modifier |
|---|
| Australia | +2 |
| Malaysia, Japan, Indianapolis | +1 |
| UK, Belguim | -1 |
I'm a big fan of Formula One, and thus wanted to try and describe what it would be like in 2049.
When it came to designing the F1 cars, I realised that the normal CW rules just can't do it. The FIA set the minimum weight of the 1999 cars at 600 kg, which works out to 1,320 lbs. Most of the cars in 1999 achieved this weight (including fuel and driver), and McLaren was one of the few exceptions, getting to a staggering 635 kgs (1,397 lbs). The engine weight is also fairly light - the Sauber Ford Zetec V10 engine weighs just under 120 kg, or 264 lbs, and this for a 2,997 cubic centimetre engine enabling the vehicle to get to around 190 mph! (Although if you think that that's bad, the McLaren V10 engine weighs only 105 kg [231 lbs.] and gives greater performance!). The acceleration and deceleration of these vehicles is also phenomenal; 0-100 mph in 3.7 seconds, and back to zero in another 2.3. Frames generally weigh around the 80 lb. mark, and teams are constantly finding ways to reduce the weight of their vehicle, whilst adding ballast to make the handling better.
Reasons for this are plentiful, and include the fact that in F1, money doesn't actually mean too much. A typical team spends some 50-100 million pounds per year on their car and the races, and a large amount goes into research which creates these beasts.
It does mean though, that to try and build the same sort of vehicles, the basic CW equipment has to be altered.
It is interesting to note though, that the F1 engines work out to around the 200 cid size (if the dimensions are worked out the same way), and a 200 cid engine with tubular headers, blue printing fine tuning and enhanced aerodynamics can propel a 1,320 lb car at 210 mph, fine for F1 standards. However it would only have an acceleration of 25 mph, so it may well be lagging at the back of the pack.
[I made a 'standard' F1 car the following, although it's built with 2050 equipment, it still is very close to a modern '00 F1 car in specs. The cost is completely irrelevant though.
Standard F1 body (enhanced aerodynamics), light chassis, 200 cid extra light racing engine (tubular headers, blue printing, fine tuning), 25 gallon racing tank, 4 PR racing slicks, driver only, no cargo, HD shocks, Hard HD racing brakes, standard racing fire extinguisher, spoiler, airdam . Armour: None, accel 25 mph, top speed 210 mph, MPG 4, weight 1,351 lbs., cost $229,000.]
The FIA is constantly changing the regulations in F1 whenever something happens. They have altered the shape of the car, engine size, tyre grooves, suspension and so on. They do this to keep the speeds of the car down and to protect the occupant and the spectators, although the teams are always finding loop holes to exploit. I decided to keep this factor (hence a lot of banned items, although when you think about it, a lot of the items make sense, and there is a reason for everything banned), but at the same time increase the options to make F1 racing more innovative than in 1999. Remember though, while I keep stating it, it's good to make this point clear, F1 is about the driver first, and then the car. Sure, you can build a great car, but without the driver it is nothing, and thus everything banned is done to give all teams a (hopefully) equal playing field where having similiar cars means that the driver gets to shine more.
For those wondering, the six wheeled chassis with the four compact wheels at back was actually built by Williams in 1982 as an experiment, but it didn't race at all.
MB: "You're watching an action replay of what happened earlier - which is absolutely nothing; We're going to take a break."
Everyone on the Delphi Duelling Debate: Car Wars Board Gaming forum with reference to the Dueltrack posts regarding Crumple Zones and Safety Barriers.
Everyone who replied on the rec.autos.sport.f1 about the Tyrell-Ford P34 car.
Thanks guys!
